Luke 8 (Gjest)
Hakone
Hakone Coffee Roasters is a modern café concept rooted in Oslo’s vibrant coffee scene. Founded in 2024, they now have several locations scattered around Oslo.
Though they don’t roast all their coffee in-house, Hakone offers a selection from different roasters, and they also roast their own limited-edition blends using a ROEST P3000 roaster.
AA Gichathaini
COUNTRY: Kenya
FARM/COOP/STATION: Gichatha-ini Factory
VARIETAL: SL-28, SL-34, Ruiru 11, Batian
PROCESSING: Washed
ALTITUDE: 1700-1900 m.a.s.l.
OWNER: Gikanda Farmers Cooperative Society
REGION: Nyeri
FARM SIZE: 1 Hectares
FLAVOUR NOTES: Complex and bright. Deep and syrupy with dark fruit, molasses, blackcurrant, and pink guava.
HARVEST AND PROCESS
The description that follows is pretty standard for Kenya and will apply to most of the coffees across the different wet mills and cooperatives. One outturn consists of many days of cherry delivery. The qualities can vary as even within one outturn things will vary from day to day and between picking and collections.
Much depends on the weather and capacity of fermentation tanks and drying space at any given time. Dates are not entirely accurate but they are pretty much in control and are able to adapt to the current situation and condition. It is fascinating that despite the sometimes lax approach to monitoring, they deliver world class coffees
The farmers from the community harvest and pick cherries in their gardens and transport the coffee to the factory for delivery and payment. The factory pays a small advance at delivery. The remaining payment will come after the coffee is sold.
Process: Cherries are hand sorted for unripes and over ripes by the farmers before they go into production.
Pulping: A 3-Disc Agaarde pulping machine removes the skin and pulp. The coffees are graded by density into three grades by the pulper. Grade 1 and 2 go separately to fermentation. Grade 3 is considered a low grade.
Fermentation: The coffee is dry fermented for 18-36 hours in concrete tanks under a roof that provides shade for better temperature control during fermentation.
Washing/Grading: After fermentation the coffees are washed and again graded by density in washing channels. They are sometimes soaked in clean water overnight.
Drying: Sun-dried 12 to 20 days on African drying beds. Time depends on weather conditions. Coffees are covered under plastic during midday and at night.
Harvest: In this area the flowering period is usually between February and March, following this the trees will be ready for harvest from October to December.
Soil: Mainly Nitisol, red volcanic soil. Nitisols occur in highlands and on volcanic steep slopes and have developed from volcanic rocks. Nitisol generally has better chemical and physical properties than other tropical soils.
IMPACT
We collaborate with partners engaged in specialty coffee and initiatives aimed at farm sustainability, fair pricing, and quality bonuses for farmers. Our main emphasis lies in fostering long-term relationships with Farmer Cooperative Societies (FCS), ensuring consistent sourcing from the same producers annually. However, we also remain open to acquiring exceptional coffees from new producers or washing stations if they stand out during cupping evaluations.
The traditional auction system in Kenya is very transparent, with everything clearly separated into small lots and different grades. Farmers know exactly what portion of the sales price goes back to the cooperative society after processing costs. Some cooperative societies and factories are able to pay back up to 90% of the sales price after deducting marketing and preparation costs.
COFFEE IN KENYA
Despite sharing over 865 kilometers of border with Ethiopia, the birthplace of coffee, coffee had to circumnavigate the world before it set roots in Kenya. While the earliest credible reports place coffee in Ethiopia around 850 C.E., coffee was not first planted in Kenya until 1893 when French missionaries planted trees in Bura in the Taita Hills.
Under the rule of the British Empire coffee production geared for export expanded. Large, privately owned coffee growing estates were established and most harvests went to England in parchment, where it was sold to roasters prior to milling. Roasters often blended the bright flavors of Kenya with more chocolatey South American coffees.
Though large estates grew in hectarage and value, indigenous Kenyans did not benefit. In fact, European settlers took direct action to exclude indigenous people from growing coffee themselves.
In order to decrease competition, make labor accessible and inexpensive and continue the increase of demand for high-quality coffee, the Coffee Board was created to make regulations on coffee production and marketing. The Nairobi Coffee Exchange (NCE) (which continues to this day) was established in Nairobi to leave more of the value of green coffee at origin.
The Coffee Board tightly controlled licensing for coffee growing and processing. While the laws put in place did not explicitly state that indigenous people could not grow coffee, large estate owners made it functionally impossible for indigenous farmers to attain coffee growing licenses until the 1950s.
These laws protected the interests of the large landowners. Not only could more cultivation drive down the price of Kenyan coffee, but large farmers feared that if smallholder and indigenous farmers had their own coffee farms to tend, they would not work as paid laborers on settlers’ farms.
SL-28 and SL-34 are well-known Kenyan coffee varieties. They were bred by Scott Agricultural Laboratories (SAL). SAL was founded in 1903 by the Kenyan Colonial government to function as a research institution studying agricultural products.
SL-28 and SL-34 quickly became the varieties of choice for most growers. Their deep root structures helped them acquire water in the dry environments present throughout much of Kenyan, even without irrigation. These varieties also had higher yields than the traditional French Bourbon rootstock and were considered somewhat more disease resistant.
Though both SL varieties spread across Kenya extremely quickly, the release of Ruiru-11 in 1985 by the Kenya Coffee Research Institute (CRI) brought a new kid to the block. Many farmers planted the new Ruiru-11 variety because it was far more resistant to Coffee Berry Disease (CBD), a fungal disease attacking ripening coffee cherry, and Coffee Leaf Rust (CLR), a fungal disease that targets the leaves of coffee trees. It could also be planted at a higher density than the SL varieties, allowing farmers to maximize yields on small plots of land.
One downside to Ruiru-11 was that its shallower root structure made is more susceptible to drought and required more fertilizer. Farmers found that that by grafting Ruiru-11 to SL variety trees, they could have the best of both worlds. Trees where Ruiru-11 was grafted onto an SL variety plant had deeper root structures for drought-times (thanks to the SL variety) and higher immunity to disease and larger yields (thanks to the Ruiru-11).
Other farmers are experimenting with Batian, as well, a relatively new variety introduced by Coffee Research Institute (CRI) in 2010. Batian is named after the highest peak on Mt. Kenya and is resistant to both CBD and CLR. The variety has the added benefit of early maturity and begins bearing fruit after only two years. Some challenges (such as vegetative structure) have prevented it from becoming widespread so far, but its popularity is certainly growing.
While most farms in Kenya still have the traditional SL varieties, most also have Ruiru-11 and, increasingly, Batian. Most farms are far too small to be able to handle lot separation by variety. This means that most lots coming out of Kenya—whether single estate or smallholder group—are a blend of SL, Ruiru-11 and (sometimes) Batian.
